Merv, Turkmenistan

Four hours east of the Turkmen capital, Ashgabat, lies the immensely important archaeological site of Merv, one of the most significant cities in the ancient world. Formerly known as Alexandria and Antiochia in Margiana, poets called it the ‘city holding the universe’ and ‘soul of the kings.’ Located in a desert oasis, it was one of the first places where artificial irrigation was developed. Alas, like so many great cities of Central Asia, it was destroyed by Genghis Khan in the 13th century and never recovered.

Although it’s almost a millennium since Merv was a living city, its ruins are a fascinating place to visit. Among the many beautiful things you can still see in Merv today are: Erk-kala; Gyaur-kala (‘Citadel of Infidels’), including the ruins of a Christian temple and Buddhist monastery; the 12th century Sultan Sanjar Mausoleum with its impressive dome and ancient walls; Yusuf Khamadani mosque – a place of worship and pilgrimage; and Mohammed Ibn-Zeid mausoleum - dedicated to the leader of an 8th century revolt of Shia Muslims. Rather gruesomely, the revolt was crushed and its leader was crucified, his body parts sent in different directions and his head buried in Merv.

Having been closed for over three years during and after the pandemic, Turkmenistan is now open to visitors again, and even introduced an E-Visa system in 2025, making it easier than ever to visit. Turkmenistan is a fascinating, very little-visited country, and the ruins of Merv are a wonder to behold.

If you’d like to visit Turkmenistan as part of a tailor-made tour then please get in touch.