Yerevan’s Matenadaran - a museum, archive and centre for scientific research - is a paean to the Armenian alphabet and its story, housing the largest collection of Armenian manuscripts in the world.

To Gyumri, Armenia, and the museum of the remarkable Aslamazyan sisters, who travelled the world and broke every mould in the book.

To Odzun, in north-eastern Armenia, a 6th century church perched high above the Debed gorge.